Welcome to Chippendales, Hulu’s newest series that delves into the captivating story of Chippendales founder Steve Banerjee, played by the talented Kumail Nanjiani. The series takes us through his journey as an Indian immigrant pursuing the American dream, with a particular focus on his unique fashion choices and their significance.
Steve Banerjee’s story is marked by his meticulous attention to detail when it comes to his wardrobe. Costume designer Peggy Schnitzer highlights this aspect by emphasizing the significance of his “uniform,” which initially consisted of beige suits in the late ’70s. Despite fashion trends of the era, Steve demanded that his tailor shorten his jacket sleeves to showcase his beloved Rolex watch with a solid gold fluted bezel and diamond dial. Schnitzer explains that it wasn’t about being fashionable for Steve; it was about making a statement with his accessories, such as his watch, rings, and tie pins.
Steve’s carefully crafted suits and ties also serve to highlight his rivalry with Chippendales choreographer Nick De Noia, portrayed by Murray Bartlett. Nick’s effortlessly minimalist outfits, with his shirts casually open at the neck, contrast sharply with Steve’s buttoned-up and meticulously styled ensembles. Schnitzer deliberately avoids putting a tie on Nick to accentuate this difference. She explains that Nick wears his own clothes while Steve’s clothes wear him, further emphasizing their conflicting styles.
When the New York City outpost of Chippendales opens in 1983, Nick’s outfits allow him to command attention effortlessly. He even secures television segments with prominent hosts like Phil Donahue, who introduces him as “Mr. Chippendales.” In response, Steve becomes incensed, and after securing an interview on a local Los Angeles news channel, he adopts a splashier look. He wears a dark gray notch lapel suit, silver shirt, and tie, accessorized with a tasteful pin. Schnitzer believes Steve’s decision may have been influenced by his wife and Chippendales accountant, Irene (Annaleigh Ashford). The outfit was deliberately chosen to make a statement, showcasing a style that Steve had never worn before.
However, Steve’s appearance on the news turns into a humiliating experience due to awkward banter and a makeup job that fails to consider his complexion. This scene serves as a reminder of the ongoing issue of disregarding the needs and nuances of individuals with different skin tones. As a result, Steve’s confidence shatters, and he embarks on a destructive path for himself, Nick, and the club.
In HBO’s Perry Mason, we witness the transformation of scrappy PI-turned-lawyer Perry Mason, played by Matthew Rhys. Initially seen donning a tie he pilfered off a dead body in the first season, Perry evolves into a more polished individual as he takes on criminal cases. However, for his latest endeavor, defending two young Mexican American men accused of murder, he needs to upgrade his usually rumpled attire.
Costume designer Catherine Adair custom designs a navy three-button, notch lapel suit with a slightly more sloped shoulder and a narrow waist for Perry. Adair ensures that all the suits Perry wears are period-correct, basing the ensemble on a vintage early ’30s suit that fits Rhys perfectly. Perry’s courtroom opponent, assistant DA Thomas Milligan (Mark O’Brien), effortlessly exudes confidence with his magnificent three-piece plaid suit, complete with rarefied peak lapels and double-breasted waistcoat. Adair explains that Milligan’s ensemble is bespoke to the nth degree, showcasing the classism and corruption Perry is up against while adding depth to Rhys’s performance.
As Perry investigates a shady gambling boat, he loosens his tie and undoes his suit jacket, reflecting his discomfort in his own skin and his ongoing internal struggles. Adair explains that even with a bespoke suit, Perry still feels uneasy and at odds with himself. This attention to detail in Perry’s wardrobe helps portray his character’s development throughout the series.
Moving on to Netflix’s The Crown, we witness Mohamed Al-Fayed’s aspiration to become a British gentleman, as portrayed by Salim Daw. Seeking guidance from his new hire, Sydney Johnson (Jude Akuwudike), a former valet and footman to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Mohamed visits the tailor for a pinstripe suit fit for royalty. Sydney explains that the higher waist cut on the double-breasted, peak lapel jacket is reminiscent of the Duke’s own preference as it gave him more stature in photographs.
But Mohamed’s journey toward a British persona began much earlier. In 1946, a young Mohamed (Amir El-Masry) sold Coca-Cola on the streets of Alexandria, Egypt, where he became infatuated with the British monarchy after encountering the Windsors. Outfitted by costume designer Amy Roberts, the young dreamer’s cool little jacket symbolized his ambitions and determination to match the elegance and power of the monarchy. Roberts incorporated colorful striped dress shirts to represent Al-Fayed’s love for printed silk shirts while highlighting his preference for lightweight fabrics despite the colder English winters.
Despite his billions, Mohamed’s ultimate validation is meeting Queen Elizabeth II, portrayed by Imelda Staunton. In an attempt to secure a seat next to her at a polo match, he purchases Harrods department store in 1985. The anticipation of the meeting is reflected in his choice of outfit, a silver-gray peak lapel suit with a jaunty twill weave. His French-cuff shirt, featuring pink and pistachio vertical stripes, adds a playful touch. The scene cleverly links Mohamed and Princess Diana, played by Elizabeth Debicki, through their harmonized attire, generating a sense of lightness and irony, given the audience’s knowledge of their future relationship.
Costume design plays a pivotal role in portraying the characters’ journeys and personalities in these gripping series. By carefully selecting and designing the suits worn by the characters, costume designers like Peggy Schnitzer, Catherine Adair, and Amy Roberts provide viewers with a deeper understanding of the characters’ motivations and the worlds they inhabit. The attention to detail and thoughtfulness in these costume choices help bring these characters to life, making their stories even more captivating.
