Emmy-winning costume designer Laura Montgomery had a blast creating looks for the fourth season of FX/Hulu’s “What We Do in the Shadows”. As the costume designer for the show, Montgomery was responsible for bringing the kooky, vampiric world to life through her designs. In the midst of all the impressive looks, Montgomery had the challenging task of deciding which outfit to discuss for this article.
Montgomery was inspired by the script when conceptualizing Nadja’s outfit for the season four premiere. In the script, it was mentioned that Nadja had just returned from spending the summer in London. Montgomery took this English theme and drew inspiration from Victorian traveling clothes. Victorian traveling clothes were known for their durability and comfort, with hemlines being slightly shorter for practicality purposes. Although they weren’t able to replicate all the elements of Victorian traveling clothes, Montgomery incorporated these ideas into Nadja’s outfit.
To capture the essence of her time in London, Montgomery explored different ways to incorporate British influences. She turned to Alexander McQueen’s “Savage Beauty” book and found inspiration from his 1995 “Highland Rape” collection, specifically choosing a tartan print. Montgomery wanted to translate the idea of Nadja’s time in London without being too literal, and McQueen’s collection perfectly captured that essence.
Montgomery also looked to British designer Vivienne Westwood for inspiration, particularly admiring Westwood’s beautiful V neckline. She incorporated elements of Westwood’s designs into the construction of Nadja’s dress, creating a pastiche of shapes from British designers.
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One of the challenges Montgomery faced was designing a dress that would work well for a dramatic moment in the episode where Nadja falls through floorboards into water. She wanted the skirt to have a bubble-like shape, reminiscent of a jellyfish, and to look visually striking while sitting on the water.
When designing Nadja’s doll counterpart, Montgomery followed a reverse-engineering process. The human look always comes first, and then they scale down and adjust the design for the doll. This includes elements like buttons and prints, which are resized and modified to suit the doll’s proportions.
To add a touch of royalty and coronation to Nadja’s look, Montgomery incorporated a sash. This sash was a nod to the flamboyant and dramatic nature of Nadja’s character, aligning with the overall aesthetic of “What We Do in the Shadows”.
In order to create a cohesive look, Montgomery worked closely with the props department. While they sourced the parasols, Montgomery provided fabric to reupholster the umbrellas. This ensured that the dress fabric and parasols matched seamlessly, giving the impression that they were meant to be together.
The most challenging part of bringing the outfit together was arranging the fabric in a way that the lines of the tartan print lined up and intersected properly. Montgomery had to carefully match the patterns and consider the direction of the stripes to create a cohesive and flattering look. She aimed to chevron the lines as much as possible, creating visually pleasing angles where the diagonal lines met.
Creating a compelling and visually striking outfit for Nadja’s return required careful thought and attention to detail. Montgomery drew inspiration from different sources, including Victorian traveling clothes, Alexander McQueen, and Vivienne Westwood. By incorporating elements from these influences and considering the practicality of the design, Montgomery successfully brought Nadja’s character to life through her costume.
In the world of “What We Do in the Shadows”, every detail matters. Montgomery’s dedication and creativity shine through in the outfit she designed for Nadja, showcasing her expertise as an Emmy-winning costume designer. As the show continues to explore the kooky and vampiric world, audiences eagerly anticipate the next imaginative and visually stunning costumes Montgomery will bring to life.
