Crafting the farewell ensemble for Tanya McQuoid, played by Jennifer Coolidge, in the season two finale of HBO’s “The White Lotus” was an intricate and technical process for costume designer Alex Bovaird. In this article, Bovaird reflects on the challenges and creativity involved in constructing Tanya’s final floral dress, which had to be re-created multiple times for different scenes and shots.
The script called for Tanya to appear floating and serene in the water, like a jellyfish or sea creature, as a Puccini song played. Bovaird used this description as a starting point for designing the dress. It was clear that a custom-made dress was necessary, as it would need to be shot on stunt doubles, dummies, and in different locations. Bovaird enlisted an Italian seamstress to create the dresses, ending up with a total of seven versions.
One of the main technical challenges was ensuring that the dress stayed in place when Tanya entered the water. Bovaird and her team added fishing weights to prevent the dress from floating up and unflatteringly exposing Tanya. However, they also wanted to capture a shot where the dress floated up elegantly, so they had to find a balance between weight and buoyancy. It took a lot of trial and error to achieve the desired effect.
The jewelry Tanya wore in the scene was purchased from local artists in the Sicilian town of Taormina. Bovaird wanted to convey the idea that Tanya had picked up these pieces during her holiday, so they were meant to look like something she would have bought from a local store. In addition to the local jewelry, Tanya also wore her signature Kate Spade cocktail ring.
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Tanya’s purse in the scene was a Valentino, as it was important for her to carry a notable designer purse. Bovaird explained that the choice of Valentino was fitting and romantic, and the bright pink purse served as a form of body armor for Tanya. The costume team focused on Italian brands for this season, which made Valentino a perfect choice.
For Tanya’s shoes, Bovaird selected Betsey Johnson heels with a turned, wonky heel. This choice reflected Tanya’s quirky and offbeat personality. Since there were various shots involving water, four additional pairs of shoes were prepared as backups in case any were misplaced or damaged in the sea.
Finding the right fabric for Tanya’s dress was a challenging task. Bovaird and her team searched high and low for the right floaty chiffon fabric, as countless options fell short of their vision. They wanted to incorporate Italian-influenced prints into all the characters’ costumes, including Tanya. The final fabric they found had tulips and peonies and was by Emanuel Ungaro, a celebrated designer from the ’60s.
In terms of silhouette, Tanya’s final dresses had a more elegant and streamlined look compared to some of her wilder outfits from the first season. However, Bovaird wanted to bring back a touch of fragility and childhood nostalgia for Tanya, as she talks about her mother dressing her like a doll. The last few dresses had a baby-doll aesthetic, emphasizing Tanya’s vulnerability.
Throughout the costume design process, Bovaird had conversations with Jennifer Coolidge to ensure the looks remained grounded. They wanted to avoid portraying Tanya as a “crazy lady” while still embracing her chaotic energy. Bovaird aimed to strike a balance between reality and comedy, capturing both elegance and a hint of chaos in Tanya’s final ensembles.
In conclusion, crafting Tanya McQuoid’s farewell ensemble for the season two finale of “The White Lotus” involved meticulous attention to detail and technical considerations. From the custom-made dresses to the jewelry and accessories, every element was carefully chosen to reflect Tanya’s character and the scene’s ambiance. The process required collaboration, creativity, and a willingness to experiment to achieve the desired aesthetic.
