In 1988, Bethann Hardison, along with Iman and Naomi Campbell, co-created the Black Girls Coalition, a group that aimed to celebrate and shine a spotlight on black models in the fashion industry. Little did Hardison know that she was laying the foundation for a discussion about diversity in fashion that would last for decades. Hardison’s story and her efforts to push for progress are the subject of the new documentary Invisible Beauty, directed by Frédéric Tcheng and set to release in theaters on September 15th.
The title Invisible Beauty is a nod to Ralph Ellison’s novel Invisible Man, which explores the experiences of African Americans in the South. Hardison chose the name for what was originally planned as an exposé on the modeling industry. However, after years of trying to get the project made, it went dormant. It was at the urging of friends that she turned the camera on herself while working on her upcoming memoir. The title seemed to make sense, encapsulating the idea that black models were often overlooked and invisible in the fashion world.
Hardison’s journey in the fashion industry has been unintentionally extraordinary. She never aspired to be a model but caught the attention of designer Willi Smith in 1967 when he asked her to model for him. Then, in 1973, she walked in the historic Battle of Versailles Fashion Show, where U.S. designers used an unprecedented 11 black models in their face-off against the French. These experiences propelled Hardison into the modeling industry in a way she never expected.
In 1984, Hardison launched the Bethann Management Agency, not because she had a desire to be an agent, but because diverse talent in the industry asked her to represent them. She was hesitant at first, unsure if she could compete in the industry. However, the models were willing to take the risk with her and wait for the money needed to start the agency. This act of support and love from the models solidified Hardison’s decision to start the agency and fight for greater representation of black models.
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Throughout the years, black models have often teetered on the line between being trendy and less visible in the fashion industry. According to a report from job-search site Zippia, the percentage of black models on the runway fluctuated, from 13% from 2010 to 2017, declining to 10% from 2018 to 2020, and then rising again to 17% in 2021. This pattern prompted Hardison, Iman, and Campbell to speak out about the lack of black models in ad campaigns and on runways. In 2013, they published open letters to major design fashion councils, calling out designers who used little to no models of color in their shows. Their goal was not to argue, but to start a conversation and raise awareness about the issue.
Iman, an executive producer of Invisible Beauty, describes Hardison’s groundbreaking efforts as something that no one else thought to do. The industry didn’t care enough about the experiences and feelings of black models, but Hardison did. She was willing to step off the cliff and fight for equality, even if it meant a lonely ride.
In addition to Invisible Beauty, other documentaries are also shedding light on important figures in the fashion industry. Donyale Luna: Supermodel, directed by Nailah Jefferson, tells the story of Donyale Luna, the first black model to grace the cover of British Vogue in 1966. The film explores Luna’s impact on fashion during the 1960s and ’70s and her muse-like relationship with artist Salvador Dalí. Luna tragically passed away in 1979 from a heroin overdose at the age of 33.
Apple TV+ is also set to release a four-part series called The Super Models, executive produced by Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Linda Evangelista. Directed by Barbara Kopple, the series delves into the iconic careers of these four influential models and their disruptive impact on the fashion industry.
Invisible Beauty and these other documentaries highlight the stories and contributions of important figures in the fashion industry. They shed light on the ongoing struggle for diversity and representation, while also celebrating the achievements of those who have fought for progress. As these stories continue to be told, they inspire new generations to push for a more inclusive and diverse fashion industry.
