Frederick Wiseman is a renowned documentarian known for his compassionate and hard-hitting works that chronicle American institutions. For over half a century, he has captured the inner workings of various public bodies, offering a comprehensive portrait of America. However, in the 1990s, Wiseman expanded his focus beyond the United States and began making films in France, where he currently resides. His French films, including his latest work “Menus-Plaisirs — Les Troisgros,” delve into the country’s cultural institutions rather than its public bureaucracies.
“Menus-Plaisirs — Les Troisgros” is a 240-minute immersion inside one of France’s most esteemed restaurants, run by the Troisgros family for four consecutive generations. Set in the kitchens, dining rooms, and neighboring farms of a mouth-watering Michelin 3-star establishment in the idyllic Loire region, the film offers a food lover’s dream and an aspiring chef’s guidebook. It explores the sophisticated alchemy behind seamlessly running such a renowned restaurant, while also serving groundbreaking dishes sourced locally.
The Troisgros family played a crucial role in the nouvelle cuisine movement of the 1960s and 70s. Pierre Troisgros, who took over the restaurant from his father, Jean-Pierre, in the late 1950s, became one of the movement’s key players. His son, Michel, continued the family tradition, and in the film, we see him working alongside his son, César, who has since taken over. Wiseman’s fly-on-the-wall approach allows viewers to observe and learn without relying on titles or talking-head interviews. Only towards the end of the four-hour film does Wiseman provide some information about the restaurant’s history.
The documentary moves between scenes at the Troisgros restaurant, specifically the Le Bois sans feuilles (The Woods Without Leaves) iteration opened by Michel and his wife in 2017, and the neighboring farms where they source their ingredients. As with most of Wiseman’s films, every stage of the process is showcased, from passionate debates between family members about recipes to visits to suppliers. Troisgros operates both as a family business and a farm-to-table establishment, emphasizing a human supply chain with biodiverse, organic farming methods.
While the film immerses viewers in the world of fine dining, it also acknowledges the high cost associated with such an exclusive experience. The sommelier mentions preselling a bottle of wine for 15,000 Euros, and the clientele mainly consists of wealthy older individuals. Despite the excessive demands, the Troisgros kitchen operates like a high-tech laboratory, free of pretentious screaming French chefs. The doc presents a harmonious blend of work and home life, creating a sense of bliss between human and nature that seems almost impossible to achieve in modern times.
Beyond the mouth-watering food depicted in the film, “Menus-Plaisirs — Les Troisgros” also highlights the creativity and dedication of the chefs. The cooks showcase their skills and techniques, working with ingredients like melted chocolate or fresh fish in ways that seem superhuman. The steady accumulation of experience and careful guidance contribute to their precision and mastery of the craft. Watching the Troisgros men work in the kitchen is akin to witnessing athletes at the top of their game performing in the Olympics.
As the film concludes, Michel traces his family’s culinary roots back 86 years, emphasizing the long-standing tradition behind their expertise. It is worth noting that Wiseman’s first feature, “Titticut Follies,” was made exactly 66 years ago. Through “Menus-Plaisirs — Les Troisgros,” Wiseman captures the savoir-faire that only time can provide, leaving viewers with a captivating image of the harmonious coexistence of work, home, and nature.
In summary, Frederick Wiseman’s “Menus-Plaisirs — Les Troisgros” offers an immersive and epicurean journey into one of France’s most renowned restaurants. Combining elements of food porn with a behind-the-scenes exploration of the culinary world, the film showcases the Troisgros family’s long-standing culinary tradition and their commitment to farm-to-table practices. Through his unique fly-on-the-wall approach, Wiseman captures the alchemy, creativity, and dedication involved in running a Michelin 3-star establishment. The documentary serves as both a delight for food lovers and a testament to the enduring power of tradition and expertise.
