The movement for improved working conditions in Hollywood has now reached the United Kingdom, as a group of U.K. stylists have announced the formation of the Celebrity Stylists Union. This union, a branch of the Broadcasting, Entertainment, Communications and Theatre Union in Europe (Bectu), aims to regulate pay structures and establish rate cards and best practices for stylists in the industry. This comes as a wave of labor activity continues in Hollywood, with writers and actors still on strike.
Sarah Slutsky, a New York-based stylist who has worked with actresses Mandy Moore, Jessica Williams, and Elizabeth Olsen, believes that the conditions in the U.S. are not any different from the U.K. She supports the U.K. stylists’ decision to unionize and hopes that stylists in the U.S. will be inspired to do the same. Slutsky says, “I personally relate to all of the experiences relayed by the stylists in the U.K. — in all honesty, it’s a bit of a relief to learn I’m not alone, but rather part of a global community who has been struggling with the same issues.”
Ugo Mozie, a Nigerian designer and image director, believes that reform is necessary in the industry. Having worked as a costume designer, celebrity stylist, and fashion editor, Mozie has seen many unfair situations and policies that do not benefit stylists. He highlights two key concerns: pay rates and payment terms. Across the board, studio budgets for stylists are extremely low, and payment for their work is often delayed by 60 to 90 days. Stylists are also required to use their own credit cards and funds to purchase items needed for jobs, which can leave them financially burdened.
The high costs required to take on clients have made it difficult for many stylists to establish or maintain a career in the industry. Slutsky explains, “From a stylist point of view, the studios have created an ‘industry standard’ pay scale that no stylist agreed to. These rates have no consideration for our unique skills, our expertise, the demands of each individual job, or the time required to complete the jobs.”
Stylists also face challenges when it comes to buyouts, which can result in them making less money than they should in certain situations. For example, if a client has a speaking engagement with a rate of $80,000 and an additional $20,000 allotted for glam, sometimes the agent, manager, or publicist will do a $100,000 buyout instead. This means that the stylist may be paid less than what they should be earning.
Forming a stylists union in the U.S. faces several obstacles, such as the individualized nature of the relationship between stylists and clients. Entertainment labor lawyer Michael Maizner suggests that forming a guild, rather than a union, may be a better option for stylists. A guild could set standards and practices that members agree to follow, without the need for collective bargaining agreements.
However, now is the time for stylists to take action in the industry, given the current labor movement happening across various industries. Maizner says, “What they’re doing in the U.K. is great because it brings awareness to what’s going on and how much of a struggle it is for them.” Mozie believes that aligning with an existing union or strike, such as the Writers Guild and Screen Actors Guild, would be the best way for stylists to achieve success.
In conclusion, the formation of the Celebrity Stylists Union in the U.K. highlights the need for improved working conditions and fair pay in the industry. Stylists in the U.S. are experiencing similar challenges and should be inspired to come together and advocate for change. By aligning with existing unions or strikes, stylists can strengthen their voices and work towards a better future in the industry.
