The 1980s are often remembered for their questionable fashion choices, but wardrobe designer Ernesto Martinez wanted to avoid that stereotype when working on the Apple TV+ series Physical. Martinez aimed to create a timeless look for the show’s characters, incorporating fashion from the ’70s and ’80s without making it appear kitschy. As Physical enters its third and final season, Martinez has focused on showcasing the growth and evolution of the characters through their clothing choices.
One of the main characters, Sheila Rubin (played by Rose Byrne), is a housewife battling inner demons and finding solace in aerobics. Martinez wanted Sheila’s wardrobe to reflect her journey and aspirations, featuring bold colors and “designery” outfits that made her stand out in her conservative San Diego surroundings. Despite her lack of success, Sheila always lived beyond her means, and Martinez used her competitive spirit and rivalry with Kelly Kilmartin (Zooey Deschanel) to inspire her costumes, including strong colors, exaggerated ’80s shoulders, and extravagant jewelry.
Martinez also wanted to highlight Greta, Sheila’s friend who defies the ’80s “thin is in” aesthetic. In the beginning, Greta was intentionally portrayed as not conventionally pretty, but as her character evolved, Martinez incorporated more fitted and colorful clothing to show her growing confidence and acceptance of her body. Greta’s wardrobe choices mirrored her desire to emulate Sheila and become a stronger and more self-assured woman.
When it came to sourcing the wardrobe, Martinez revealed that he made many of the garments himself, often copying designs from iconic designers such as Christian Dior, Halston, and Yves Saint Laurent. He also acquired vintage pieces from brand archives, like a St. John dress worn by Sheila in episode five. Additionally, he collaborated with brands like Judith Leiber, Gucci, Maud Frizon, Charles Jourdan, and Susan Bennis/Warren Edwards to incorporate their accessories and shoes into the show’s wardrobe.
The challenging part of bringing the wardrobe to life was finding the right pieces. Martinez mentioned that sourcing authentic ’80s clothing was difficult, as most of what is available now leans towards the kitschy side of fashion from that era. However, he aimed to create a timeless look for Physical, one that would not seem outdated in the future.
Martinez also discussed his approach to dressing the male characters, explaining that Physical is primarily a women’s show, with Sheila as the focal point. The male characters’ wardrobes were intentionally frozen in time, reflecting their lack of growth and evolution compared to the female characters. Martinez wanted to convey their stagnant views on women and controlling tendencies through their clothing.
For Rose Byrne’s character, Martinez had a collaborative relationship, with both of them discussing wardrobe choices and the desired impact of certain outfits. They would try on different options and consider how the costumes would work with wigs and specific scenes. Martinez appreciated Byrne’s involvement and collaboration throughout the process.
As Physical enters its final season, viewers can expect to see how the characters’ clothing choices continue to reflect their personal growth and transformations. Martinez’s goal of creating a timeless look ensures that the show’s fashion will remain relevant even years from now, standing out from other period shows that may appear dated. The wardrobe of Physical truly becomes a tool for storytelling, enhancing the characters and their journeys on-screen.